VALLADOLID
Valladolid, a city built out of stone, is situated in the Yucatán, exactly half way between Mérida and Cancun, only 29 miles east of Chichén Itzá. The city dates back to the early days of the Spanish Conquest and was built in the 1500's. The attractions in Valladolid are actually quite incredible. Travelers from the central time zone of the United States should remember that upon arriving in Valladolid, you need to set your watch back, several hundred years.
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RESERVATIONS
The city of
Valladolid was once a ritual and ceremonial center of the Maya Civilization
called "Zaci", which means white hawk in Mayan. In 1543 the Spanish
Conqueror Francisco de Montejo, the nephew, descended on the area near Zaci to
straighten out the 'Cupules', a large group of Maya who didn't take kindly to
Spanish intervention. After making war on the Cupules he built Valladolid on
top of the temples. Valladolid, after the city of the same name in Spain is
where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella were married. Interestingly enough the
Spanish Government has recently deemed Valladolid as one of the most authentic
Spanish cities in the Americas and has granted large sums of money to aid in
its preservation.
In all there are 8 separate
parts to the city, counting the center or "El Centro" or
"Zocalo", which is one of the most beautiful and majestic places on
earth. The park is kept immaculate in fact it is cleaned every day, 7 days a
week, at 5 A.M., by a host of park sweepers and cleaners. If you don't jog
early you will never see them. The park is also home to probably 10,000 birds
all of which great early risers with a din that has to be seen (or heard) to be
believed. On the south side of the park is the majestic Cathedral of San Gervasio.
The cathedral was completed in 1570 by The Franciscans. But, due the struggle
between the Maya and the Spanish the church was desecrated by violence. So in
1702, it was destroyed and rebuilt. The church is considered chastised and is
the only one whose main doors face north instead of west.
In all there are 7
Cathedrals in the 8 barrios of Valladolid. That is because each section has a
church except Bacalar, which only has a park and the cemetery. The barrio of
San Juan has a very interesting, small, but quite unique Cathedral. All of the
churches have parks located nearby. One of the most famous Cathedrals in the
Yucatan is located in Valladolid.
It is called 'Sisal' to the
locals, but is better known as the Monastery of Saint Bernardino of Siena. It
was the first church constructed on American soil and its size is imposing. It
is one of the most beautiful buildings of the colonial era. Construction was
started in the year 1552, under the direction of the Franciscan Friar Juan de
Mérida and Fathers Hernando de Guevara, Francisco de la Torre. It was erected
over the vault of a very large cenote. You can still see some of the original
paintings behind the altar piece, as well as its ancient garden with its water
wheel. Another amazing things about the monastery was created to be self
sustaining. The monks raised all their own food, they planted huge orchards and
vegetable gardens and had fresh water from the cenote. The monastery was
completed in 1560. One note of interest is that the word for monastery and
convent in Spanish is Convento.
Located a few blocks east
of the center of Valladolid is the beautiful cenote Zaci. You can climb down
the stairs and visit this cenote which is open to the air one on side with the
other side covered by stalactites with stalagmites below. A beautiful
restaurant with a thatch roof is located at the site and it is open daily until
dark.
One block east of the
Zocalo is the Museum of San Roque which houses hundreds of items pertaining to
the life of the Maya. From the Maya Wars to agricultural pursuits. The museum
also has a beautiful park in back with plants and its from the history of
Valladolid and the region. The museum is open daily, free of charge.
A short distance west of
Valladolid is the enchanting refreshing cenote at Dzitnup. The sun shines
through a hole in the ceiling lighting the water below in a very majestic
pattern. There are a myriad of stories about rituals and such that were
performed by the Maya in this cenote, but the truth is that the cenote was discovered
in modern times by a farmer whose pig fell in. Pig in Mayan is kiken, and that
is the actual name of the cenote.
Valladolid is also the
marketplace for over a hundred small villages where the descendants of the Maya
make handicrafts and grow crops. These descendants of the Maya are hard working
and industrious, and they are a very spiritual and peaceful people. They come
to Valladolid, everyday to sell their wares in the market place and on the
streets. The atmosphere is definitely from another time as you barter with the
maker of fine garments and hammocks. In reality there are a number of items
produced in and around Valladolid. The leather crafts include Huarache sandals,
belts, wallets and hand-bags. Silver and gold smithing artists thrive in Valladolid
and buyers come from all over Mexico to buy items. You can also buy typical
region clothes 100% handmade. Many of these cloths are made at home by women
supplementing the family income.
Valladolid is also located
in the middle of the Maya Ruins. There is no city closer to more ruins than
Valladolid. The new archaeological findings at Ek Balam are astounding the
science world and the ruins are located 20 minutes north of the city.
A new International Airport
is nearly completed near Valladolid which will allow travelers easier access to
the heartland of the Maya. The airport construction holds with the stone and
wood motif of the Maya and is considered to be a work of art in its own right.
Valladolid
Colonial and Heroic city
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